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Post by metalwizard on Mar 1, 2011 19:53:32 GMT -6
James, or anyone else.
I seem to have water in my oil on my viper (165 hp straight 6)
I have a 400 small block chevy in decent shape. Is that a possible swap?
Will the small block bolt up to the stringer outdrive? Bellhousing and flywheel or is that a NO CHANCE IN HECK thing?
I understand I would need marine exhaust distributor and front mount. But wondering if the boat and the drive could handle it?
Thanks guys
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Post by James Cochran on Mar 1, 2011 20:17:42 GMT -6
One problem with the car engine is the bearings  . Since marine engines are constantly under strain, they have more and better bearings, much better  . If the water has not caused problems with the 165, I would personally try to save it. The 165 is a super workhorse of power and torque. My neighbor had water in his oil on his 165. He saved it and the engine runs fine. In his case it was not a blown gasket or seal. He never found the source. His engine had enough of an oil film inside, the water did not cause any problems. He did several flushes and inspections. I'll check with him on his procedure and let you know if you're interested. |
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Post by James Cochran on Mar 1, 2011 20:32:18 GMT -6
New info!
The most likely cause of the water in the oil is a leaky riser gasket or rusted exhaust manifolds and risers. First I suggest closing the raw water input, close the fuel valve or disconnect the input to the fuel pump. Disconnect the lead from the ignition coil. Remove all the plugs. Drain the contaminated oil from the engine. Add new oil (it's OK to use a generic brand), some people suggest a 50/50 mix with kerosene and that's OK also. Shoot the cylinders with a healthy dose of Marvel Mystery oil or CRC. Give a healthy dose of the same into the carb as well. Crank the engine. Repeat draining the oil and lubricating the cylinders until you are certain all the water has been removed. Refill the crankcase with manufacturer suggested oil. Check your compression. It it's good - smile and press on. If it is bad or 2 adjacent cylinders read exactly the same, you might have a bad head gasket or cracked head/block. If your compession isn't right, you probably have to do at least a partial tear down. If the compression is good press on and remove and check you risers and exhaust manifolds. You might only have a leaky gasket between the riser and manifold. Replace everything you suspect as faulty. Check and/or replace the exhaust water shutter. Reassemble, open the sea cock, turn on your fuel and hope for the best. After the engine has been at operating temp for about 15 minutes, drain and refill the oil again to remove residual water.
Water will cause quick damage to your bearings if you have been running the engine with the bad oil. Check the removed oil for any metallic bits. You might take it to be analyzed if you like. My neighbor did the kerosine trick and it worked. Do not run the engine with the kerosine in it. The kerosine really cleans out the engine bigtime. If the bearings are damaged and the block is not cracked, new bearings are the ticket.
Mark, one of these days I'll get my paypal account active again, oops. Hey, any thoughts on boat name vinyl? I forgot to ask you last time.
James
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Post by metalwizard on Mar 1, 2011 21:52:48 GMT -6
ok,
I froze the motor over the winter.
I guess my drain was plugged and I did NOT get the water out.
the RISER? what isthat? is that the intake/exhaust? if so it is CRACKED on the outside and the end cap on the BACK of the motor is cracked.
I also popped a freeze plug and have a small crack in the block between #3 and #4 cyls about 1/2" below the block deck. I thought about JB welding it. until I ran it and got water in the oil.
You say it may be a riser? can you explain the riser? if thats it i might be with just rplacing that.
the motor runs fine, and I only ran it for maybe 5 to 10 min at idle. so I am SURE the berrings etc are ok.
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Post by metalwizard on Mar 1, 2011 21:55:29 GMT -6
ok I see the riser is the 180 deg elbow... HOW THE HECK would water get in the oil from there?
the way I see it (may be wrong) the intake exhaust manifold has water pumping into it from the FRONT end (little square jobbie with the nipple on it and a hose going to near the watter pump)
at what point does that connect to anything OIL related?
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Post by Joe on Aug 5, 2016 21:23:15 GMT -6
Super old thread and probably pointless to post, but I had the exact same problem with my 73 viper. It has the omc 165 also. For me it was a cracked exhaust manifold. It's hard to understand, but what happens is the exhaust cracks and since it is cooled by water it then enters the exhaust. After that it flows to the lowest point (cylinder 6) then enters the combustion chamber from above the exhaust valve. Once in the cylinder it goes past the rings into the oil. Weird, but absolutely the case. I had this problem still after a full engine rebuild.
The manifold is not repairable since the crack is internal and cast iron. I was able to find a new old stock manifold but I paid $700 for it.
If you still have your viper I'd be interested in it. I am a fan of old tri hulls.
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. Since marine engines are constantly under strain, they have more and better bearings, much better 
. If the water has not caused problems with the 165, I would personally try to save it. The 165 is a super workhorse of power and torque. My neighbor had water in his oil on his 165. He saved it and the engine runs fine. In his case it was not a blown gasket or seal. He never found the source. His engine had enough of an oil film inside, the water did not cause any problems. He did several flushes and inspections. I'll check with him on his procedure and let you know if you're interested. 